In the Kit - Louise Young Mini Puffs

Small but perfectly formed Louise Young's Mini Puffs may be tiny but they are a must-have in any make-up artists kit. If you have spent time getting skin perfect you don't want to risk moving it if you want to do touch-ups on the eyes but you can put one of these on your ring finger and it's the perfect leaning pad.  They also are the perfect size for doing really precise, delicate touch-ups under the eyes or around the nose or blotting sweat if you are working on set.

In the Kit - Hygiene and Disposables

Cleanliness is next to godliness. In make-up hygiene is sacred and it's the most important thing for me whether I'm working on my own or in a team. It's very hard to marry hating plastic and wanting to keep everything as hygienic as possible in your kit as the best way to work is using disposables and the majority of disposables are made from plastic. There used to be somewhere, The Pro Makeup Shop, where you could get ethical disposables for your kit. It has sadly disappeared and I can't seem to track any down. This is terrible. You can get them from US site Qosmedix who do bamboo disposables.

Although it is hugely important to keep everything in your kit clean and ensure your clients are at no risk it's incredibly easy to do. We all know about cleaning brushes but you need to make sure everything else you carry with you is clean too. Dettol wipes are really useful to have on hand - so good to be able to have a wipe around before you set up. Below are some of the things I always have with me.

In the KIt - MAC Pro Longwear Paint Pot

Haven't done one of these for a while but as the summer is starting to get booked up with weddings I've been thinking about what I need to get in my kit re-stock. MAC Paint Pots are not only a kit staple but something I use on nearly every single bride I do.

Pro Longwear Paint Pots are one of the products that MAC do incredibly well. Though I may try other cream shadow pots (and I do have other brands in my kit) and I often go on a shopping mission to find a particular colour for a specific bride I always, always have some of these in my kit (and in my personal make-up stash). If I'm travelling with a paired down kit there's three or four of these that are always with me.

Timeless: A Century of Iconic Looks

I love make-up books and have a growing collection but something that has always been missing, and indeed was missing when I trained all those years ago was a good, accurate guide to period make-up. Something that you could refer to when planning a shoot with genuinely useful references. Timeless: A Century of Iconic Looks by Louise Young and Lou Shepperd is that book, it's finally here.

I'm lucky to be friends with Louise and know that her passion for period make-up is absolutely genuine - she has an enviable collection of vintage make-up and clothes and is always on the look out for original products so she can find (and often create for her own make-up line) the exact modern duplicate. If you are doing '40s make-up the lips have got to be the right red, if they're not, Louise will know. This book is born from her passion for period make-up but also the frustration that many of us feel when the available references are often full of inaccuracies.

Timeless is a must for anyone studying make-up or hair, interested in period make-up, photography or just vintage looks and style. There are step-by-step guides, before and after pictures, and colour references and plenty of ideas for further research. There are a few different looks for each era with references to what celebrities wore (which is probably what we think of) and what real people at the time wore. It is a pleasure to read and the time and effort is apparent in every page, even down to the little arrow indicators showing which chapter you are on.

In the Kit - Louise Young Make-up Brushes

Being a make-up artist and writing about beauty, make-up and skincare means I'm not slavishly loyal to any brand. I try what I get my hands on and if it works I'll keep using it until I find something better. For many make-up artists brushes are an almost guilt-free shopping pleasure. You always have an excuse to buy new brushes, there's nothing worse than not having the exact one you want to hand and no one likes having to clean brushes mid-way through a job so it's best to have plenty to hand. And ones that can do more than one thing are often the best.

However, if I was told I was only allowed to use on make of brushes both in my kit and on myself there's no question that Louise Young Cosmetics is the brand I'd go for. And I'm not alone. Her brushes are found in kits all over the world - in TV studios, film sets, bridal specialists and the backstage areas at all top fashion shows. And with good reason. These brushes are handmade in the UK (you can see how in the video link below) and all created by Louise, one of the hardest working artists in the business and a complete perfectionist. All the brushes (and the make-up in her range) are made for her, they are things she wants to use when she's working. Which means I've yet to use one of her brushes and not really get why it's in the range.

What's In Your Make-up Bag with Leila Boyd - Friday Video

This is another video with the lovely Leila Boyd. This blog actually partly started with my obsessive compulsion to rifle through peoples make-up bags.

Top 5 Pro Kit Essentials with Leila Boyd - Friday Video

Huge massive thanks to Leila who came to film this with me...

Make-up Tips - Friday Video

There was no review up on Wednesday because we are all ill... nothing as dramatic as a sick bug just a really bloody boring cold. But I filmed this before it set in. YOU ARE WELCOME...

Sorry its a bit long... there's no point doing this and then not fully explaining what I'm doing

If you are not already subscribed to my YouTube channel then you should do it... it will be to your advantage in the new year when I'm giving something away every month! 

London Fashion Week SS16

Earlier in year I kept meaning to be really organised and do a post on my favourite looks from London Fashion Week AW15. Then I didn't feel at all enthused by any of the things I saw* and I deleted the post. For SS16 however there were a lot of looks I liked - red lips, glossy lids, creative pops of colour and full on glitter.

I've put links below to the Instagram accounts of a few that I particularly liked below if you want to investigate further... I hate putting up other people's pictures.

1. Andrew Gallimore for Zandra Rhodes
2. Lan Nguyen-Grealis for Teresita Orillac  
3. Val Garland for Vivienne Westwood
4. Andrew Gallimore for Studio Fulton
5. Issidora for Ivana Pilja
6. Val Garland for Anya Hindmarch

* I know there is a lot of creativity and talent to create those looks - they just weren't my thing and this is my blog.

In the Kit - The Bits 'n' Bobs Bag

Every make-up artist has one (or their assistant does!), a bag of non-make-up things you might need, or someone else might need or that's just plain weird, but useful. I was doing an inventory of mine the other day (so there are a few things missing from the picture that need replacing in my bag) and thought it may be worth a little blog post.

The bag I use is a see-through make-up bag, probably this one from PAM or similar. I can see everything in there which makes finding things quick and easy and although it looks really full this really doesn't add that much extra weight to my bag and it comes in really useful. As a make-up artist you not only get to spend time with people but often you are needed to be on stand-by making you the perfect person to solve any little problems, like microphones slipping, feet hurting or armpits smelling!

So what's in it?

• A plastic mixing palette - for, well, mixing (something like this)
• Small scissors - for cutting out labels, trimming false lashes, opening stuff
• A mini nail kit
• Blister plasters - really useful for weddings
• Micropore Tape - can be used as tit tape, to hold microphones in place or as an eye make-up guide (Boots do one... of course)
• Headband - to keep hair out of the face
• Disposable chopsticks - weird I know but actually very useful
• Shadow Shields
• Dry Shampoo - Batiste or Percy & Reed
• Deoderant - spray not roll on, no one wants to share a roll on
• Tic Tacs
• Spray bottle full of IPA - for brush and kit cleaning
• Hair Spray - Elnett obvs
• Metal spatula - for mixing (something like this)
• Brush guards
• Gaviscon - nothing worse than indegestion
• Shine absorbing blot sheets
• Sugar free polos
• Snack bar (Jordans honey and almond preferably)
• Pritt Stick
• Glass ramekin - for cleaning brushes or mixing
• Orange stipple sponge - great for 'doing' sweat
• Hand cream 
• Green nail varnish - to mark my stuff
• Small tester of perfume - Chanel Chance at the moment. Should be one with a spray so it doesn't leak. Brides quite often forget perfume!
• Tissues
• Nail file
• Hair tie
• Tampons
• Lighter
• Vaseline
• Hair pins
• Nude nail varnish (not pictured but something like Madmoiselle by Essie)

Where to Shop - Precious about Makeup (PAM)

About PAM - If you are not a pro make-up artist you may not have heard about PAM (Precious about Makeup) and why should you? In fact it may seem as a pretty odd choice to start this 'Where to Shop' series off with a West London based shop aimed towards working make-up artists, but what I love about PAM is though it is a make-up shop, owned by professional make-up artists, run by working make-up artists for those working in the business they not only stock some fantastic brands but are the nicest people to buy from so even if you are just a fan of make-up and shopping for personal use you will be given the same lovely service and advice - not always the case in other shops!

Established in 1996 by Jan Sewell (Les Miserables, The Theory of Everything) and Kate Benton (The Royals, Love Actually, Absolutely Fabulous) as somewhere for professional make-up artists to go to purchase the products they most need in their kits and it is the go-to place for those working in film, TV and special effects. One of the aims of the shop was to create a friendly atmosphere where you are always welcomed and helped no matter what your budget, or ability and since I've been going there that is exactly what I love so much about PAM and keeps me going back.

All team members are qualified, working make-up artists which means PAM is also the go-to place if you urgently need to place an order while on set, they have a fast, reliable delivery service and you can talk to someone who knows what you need. With a studio upstairs for brand and make-up artist demos their company line has become 'never stop learning' which adds to the creative, friendly atmosphere.

They are also the leading stockists for some really great, hard-to-find brands - Make Up For Ever, Ben Nye, MUD, MaqPro and Kryolan to name but a few. 

In-store - One of the reasons I love shopping in PAM is it is the perfect mix of relaxed, busy and organised. This may sound a bit strange but the make-up artists working there are always planning the next event, organising orders or helping customers in-store or on the phone. Which means although they are happy to help there's no one hovering around making you feel like you can't have a good browse or you have to purchase something, nor do you feel like you can't ask for advice. There are a few brand stands to see - Make Up For Ever and Louise Young - but also a lot of shelves filled with lots of different, often unusual products, pots of brushes and bits for your kit that has a sort of Aladdin's cave feel about it.

Online - the current website it absolutely fine, if sometimes a little fiddly but I know a new one is under design and should be coming soon. The products are usually up-to-date but as I mentioned above this is really a shop for pro make-up artists so occasionally things are listed as not in stock when they've just come in. If you're desperate for something then it's worth calling to check and if they don't have it, they'll order it for you. International shipping available and a choice of postage options within the UK.

Discount - for working make-up artists there is a discount available between 20%-35% depending on the brand available in-store and over the phone. They are hoping to make this available online with the launch of the new website. 

What to buy - although a limited range will be going into Debenhams later in the year, PAM is the stockist for Make Up For Ever so if you are a fan of them then this is the shop to go to. Also great for weird little kit necessities, sponges, bruise wheels, cotton wool buds, latex gloves and hand palettes. Zucca bags, beauty blenders, brush cleaners, disposables, and palettes are also always in stock. Skincare, suncare, magazines, books, special fx, airbrushing, lighting and things for the studio - if they haven't got it they'll try their hardest to track it down for you.

Best Sellers - top 3's listed below by brand and product

• Make Up For Ever - HD Foundation, HD Powder, Full Cover 
• MaqPro - Dirt, Grime and Guy Liner Palette, Jan Sewell Palette, Concealer Palette designed by Shaunna Harrison
• MUD - Primer, Lip Pencil, 500 Mascara Fan brush
• Louise Young Cosmetics - 787SDF Large Tapered Blending Brush, LY38 Tapered Shadow brush, Louise Young Mini Puffs
• Ben Nye - Banana Powder, Fashion Rouge Palette, Mojave Palette
• Brushes - Sigma E45 Small Tapered Blending brush, Sigma F25 Tapered Face brush, Sigma F80 Flat Kabuki brush
• Special FX - Glynn McKay Bruise gels, Probondo, Shaunna Harrisons moulds
• Other - Velour lashes, Make-up Eraser, Dr Paw Paw

Contact info - Precious About Makeup (PAM) 6-7 Goldhawk Mews, London W12 8PA (nearest tube Goldhawk Road). 020 8740 0808. www.preciousaboutmakeup.com. Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and YouTube. 

Opening Hours - Monday - Friday 9am-5.30pm. Saturday 9am-5pm

In the Kit - MAC Face and Body Foundation

Every make-up artist is different, yes there are few things that the majority carry but everyone finds things that they use and use over and over again and never like to run out of. So one of the new things I'll be doing on Monday's is looking at something from my kit that I wouldn't be without be it make-up, skincare, the tools themselves or the weird little things that I carry around just in case (clear nail varnish, medical tape, Gaviscon to name but a few).

Foundations may come and go but MAC Face and Body is a kit staple for a lot of make-up artists. But why? Well, so many reasons. Foundation is expensive, it doesn't last forever and obviously you need more than one shade and Face and Body is still the most versatile foundation out there. And, as the name implies this works well not only on the face but all over the body should you need it to. If you need to tan up legs and arms on a shoot, then this is the foundation to go for.

United Makeup Artist Expo 2015

This weekend I spent as much time as possible at the 2015 United Makeup Artist Expo in the Business Design Centre, Angel, London. I've always raved about this event and this year will be no exception. It wasn't all good news - though I felt the event itself had been really stepped up a notch in terms of exhibitors, classes, talks and demonstrations I felt it was incredibly under publicised. As a previous attendee, a blogger who is a big fan of the event, and a make-up artist I have never been sent a scrap of info about the UMA Expo. No email, no annoying mail in the post, nothing. I am constantly sent details of an event in Birmingham I have never been to and can't see myself being able to go to and yet they somehow manage to get all the bumf to me every year. I can't understand why the PR for the UMA Expo isn't better - the event itself is fantastic and a favourite amongst a lot of pro artists so why not make more of it?

Colour Match - Green Eyes

Something I get asked about a lot and which I always factor into my bridal work is choosing eyeshadows that are going to bring out eye colours. Once you know what's going to really enhance your eyes then you can go straight for those shades and choosing quads and palettes becomes much less time consuming.

I thought I'd start off with green eyes as, well my eyes are green and though I don't colour match them with my eye shadow every day when I do a lot of people suddenly comment on them. Usually they just look kind of sludgey.

You can choose shades to enhance your eyes - these will reflect your own natural eye colour. So, green shadow for green eyes. Alternatively you can choose to intensify you eye colour - to do this, you need to select shades from the opposite side of the colour wheel and the contrast will make your eyes 'pop'. (Agghhhh I hate that expression.) But, you also need to take into account your skin tone. I avoid purples because of my dark circles, for instance, although a thin line of purple liner would do the trick nicely for most green eyes. Personally I love black liner and mascara, and they will bring out the green in your eyes nicely. Brown's are the way to go if you want something a bit more subtle or for the daytime.

So to enhance your eyes choose a similar shade of green. Golds look beautiful too with green eyes. Or to make them really intense go for purples, copper, browns and taupes. A good slightly metallic beige or tan will really bring out the green during the day so if you want to tone it down for the office those are the ones to try. By choosing an eye quad or palette that has a mix of colours in it you are guaranteed to make the most of your green eyes whatever mood you are in or whatever event you are doing your make-up for and some brands are even starting to note which product will work with which eye colour (thanks Charlotte Tilbury!)

Some of my favourite products for green eyes...

• MAC eye shadow in Satin Taupe and Woodwinked
• The Urban Decay Naked Palette
• Liz Earle Signature Eye Shadow in Bronze
• Charlotte Tilbury Colour Chameleon in Bronzed Garnet (see my review here)
• MAC eye kohl in Teddy, Powersurge, and Smoulder
• Charlotte Tilbury Luxury palette in The Golden Goddess, Vintage Vamp or The Dolce Vita
  (I've yet to try but I've heard great things about these)
• Sleek Makeup I-Divine palette in Au Naturel, Oh So Special, Garden of Eden and Vintage Romance
• Kiko Colour Fever Eye Shadow palette in Coral Burgandy (not the most long lasting colours but blend nicely for a worn look)

Sorry for terrible photo's but thought it would be good to show the difference it can make... on the left is my unmade up eye. Below is with a bit of the Bronzed Garnet from Charlotte Tilbury and Satin Taupe from MAC done very quickly as late for nursery. Standing in the same position light-wise..

Beauty Blenders

One of the things I get asked about a lot is make-up brushes. Which brush works best for a certain product, skin type or look, what the brush does that I'm using on a client, what my favourite brand of brushes are and the answer is constantly changing. Yes there are some brands that I think are very reliable in terms of quality and there are lots out there that I haven't got round to trying yet so can't pass comment on, but one of the most asked questions is what's the best brush for applying foundation for problem or more mature skins and I used to recommend a stippling brush. However, recently I have been favouring a Beauty Blender so I thought it would be useful to do a little feature on beauty blenders - the original and those from other brands, specifically the Real Techniques Miracle Complexion sponge because this is the high street alternative, the easiest to get hold of.

How I Store My Make-up - Friday Video

Everyone seems to use Muji. I don't. Not because I don't like their stuff but because I'm so happy with what I've used for the past eight years...



I use the Small Shoe Box from The Holding Company but you can check out all their storage boxes here.

Time to get your tickets

There are some really exciting make-up events happening in 2015 and not only are tickets already available but often if you get them early enough you get a lovely discount! In date order...

United Make-up Artists Expo -
When - 11th (9am-6pm) and 12th (9.45am-4.45pm) April 2015
Where - Business Design Centre, Angel, London
Why go? -  This has by far the nicest atmosphere of any of the make-up events I have been to. This is a place where people who are passionate about make-up go to top up their kits, see fantastic exhibitions and learn. If I could only attend one it would be this one.
Ticket Price -  1 Day Pro Ticket - £40, 2 Day Pro Ticket - £50. 1 Day Standard Ticket - £50, 2 Day Standard Ticket - £60 get them here
What I thought in 2014 - check out my video review here

International Make-up Artist Trade Show, London (IMATS) -
When - 10th-12th July 2015 (10th is a Pro Make-up Artists day)
Where - Olympia, London
Why go? - Since moving to Olympia IMATS has vastly improved it is still, however, rather a place to be seen to be at nowadays which can leave to some rather silly behaviour from some (exhibitors and attendees alike). Still it's a great place to top up your kit, buy new products and see some incredible demonstrations from some of the most talented people in the business. If you are not a pro make-up artist then Sunday is often the nicest day to go on.
Ticket Price - £45 get them here
What I thought in 2013 - check out my video here

Olympia Beauty -
When - 4th and 5th October 2015
Where - Olympia, London
Why go? - I actually found this event rather flat make-up wise last year  except for the absolutely incredibly body painting which goes on over both days. I'm hoping for better make-up stands this year. If you are a beauty therapist this is the event for you with everything from products, to demos to clothing.
Ticket Price - free

Some of my Favourite Make-up Artist Instagram Accounts

I am a big fan of Instagram, admittedly nowadays my pictures are mostly dog and baby-related (I always forget to take pictures when I'm doing make-up) but as a make-up artist there are some really beautiful and inspiring accounts to follow so I thought I'd list a few of my favourites. Some are more well known than others, all are incredible. I'm going to do five now and five next month...

• Pat McGrath (@patmcgrathreal) - I may as well start of with one of the biggest names in make-up artistry. A woman everyone wants to work with and everyone who has worked with her, loves. She's self taught and has made-up the faces of anyone worth making-up - if you love glitter, liner and beautiful skin this is an account to follow. For me Pat McGrath is queen.

• Andrew Gallimore (@andrewgallimakeup) - If McGrath is queen then Gallimore is king and the book of his work photographed by Rankin (Andrew Gallimore by Rankin) was the make-up book of the past couple of years. The first UK Ambassador for Dior he is the master of colour and texture and he doesn't limit himself to creative shoots, he has done the make-up for a long list of celebrities including Jessie J, Annie Lennox and Beth Ditto to name but three. 

•  Kenneth Soh (@kennethsohmakeup) - combining two of my favourite things make-up and food (though not usually at the same time) Kenneth Soh is the creator of flawless, beautiful shoots by day whilst cooking mouth-watering feasts in his time off. The perfect blend of make-up shoots, products and life, I love seeing his latest work, what's inspiring him and what he's eating!

• Laura Louise (@lauraloumakeup) - combining sass, humour and an awe-inspiring trainer collection this talented make-up artist is completely on the button with everything cool that's going on in the industry from latest products, trends and styles she creates gorgeous looks not only for her work but also on herself most days.

• Lottie (@lotstar) - it's not surprising this US make-up artist has over 53 thousand followers, if I'm flicking through Instagram in a hurry and something makes me stop and go back to have another look nine times out of ten it'll be Lottie's work. An impressive list of print work and assisting credits she not only creates beautiful wearable looks but my god she's amazing with glitter!

 

The House of Glam Dolls

The Glam Shed

It’s very hard to talk about the House of Glam Dolls without talking about David Horne, for the small but perfectly formed studio space in North London is the culmination of David’s many years at the top of the make-up artistry game. David helped establish MAC in the UK. He was, until recently, the Creative Director for revolutionary brand Illamasqua and he is the author of The Art of Male Makeup, the first book of its kind. Here is a man with incredible talent, passion and ambition who’s love of teaching has led to him setting up his own studio, along with his good friend and fellow MAC alumni Chinyee Chu where they teach courses and develop new products. The first product being SuperGlamDoll lashes which are only £5 (and postage) and of absolutely fantastic quality. The second product is top secret at the moment but I’ve seen it and it is absolutely stunning. And as soon as I'm allowed you will be able to read about it here first.

Vintage Make-up Cabinet

I was given the opportunity to go and have a look around the House of Glam Dolls and it was not what I expected at all. I’ve been to a lot of make-up studios and I can definitely say I’ve never been to one with a shed for an office. The ‘Glam Shed’ is the first thing you see on arrival. It’s here where the computers live and the lashes are sold from and the shed walls are covered in pictures, dolls and trolls. In the rest of the space there’s not one mirror surrounded by lights, not one white surface, no swivel chairs. No boxes of tissues for these guys, hot pink loo roll is available from either end of the big square black table in the middle of the work space. The make-up is kept in roasting trays and there is a cabinet in the corner filled with vintage make-up and David’s inspirations from his time at Illamasqua. 

 

What I keep coming back to when thinking about the House of Glam Dolls is that you have the opportunity here to be taught by an industry great. The make-up industry has exploded in popularity in the last decade. Make-up artists are celebrities in their own right and it is harder and harder to get assisting work and the training can often be intimidating, in soulless, white rooms with bright lights and white surfaces with your work on display for all to see (which you do need to get used to!) Here is somewhere where you can learn, be creative, try things out, ask questions, sit and flip through the fantastic books. 

The Make-up Chest

The courses range from a five day intensive course to one-to-one mentoring, and these courses often fill in the gaps left by other colleges. Whether you want to focus on vintage with the ‘House of Vintage Makeup’ course, get more confident in colour and creativity with the one day ‘Beyond the Rainbow’ or start at the beginning with the ‘Introduction to the Art of Make-up’ a three day course giving you a taste of what it takes to be a make-up artist there really is something for everyone here. Check out all the courses here and see which one suits you - I am going to be signing up for the ‘Finishing Touches’ course as soon as I save this copy! 

Reference library

Tea? Coffee? Crisps? Jelly Baby?

Friday Video - The Day I had a Lot to Say

So this started as a little sort of rant about make-up... a nice rant though