A while ago
Darphin's Intral Toner was my
Product of the Week
and I confessed to not really know what a toner should be doing and why
you should use one. Cue me doing lots of research into toners, their
uses and ingredients.
The term 'toner' now seems to
cover a lot of products that actually do different things. The skin has
an acid mantle of sweat andoils that you produce naturally. A cleanser
will strip these away and change the pH balance. A little oil is a good
thing as the acids prevent bacteria build up but a good toner will keep
very oily skin in check. The delicate balance of the oils in the skin
means normal soap is usually too harsh for the softer skin on your face.
So a routine of using the right cleansers, toners and moisturisers is
better than scrubbing away with soap everyday.
Life
is dehydrating - heating, air conditioners, smoke, traffic all dry the
skin out. A good toner can re-balance the skin after cleansing, reduce
the penetration of impurities and environmental contaminants to the
skin, gently exfoliate without using any harsh grains, hydrate the skin
by attracting moisture from the air and help your moisturiser absorb
into the skin. Traditional toners soothe while the more astringent
toners tighten the skin and remove oil. Refreshing toners tighten the
skin and are usually alcohol free, balancing the pH of the skin after
cleansing. Though it's worth mentioning the skin would normally do this
naturally after half an hour or so.
Your
toners should contain a humectant (for example glycerin) to attract and
keep moisture. Astringent toners with a high proportion of alcohol
(20-60%) are good for oily skin. Alcohol is alright in toners if they
are concentrated by glycerin. It's the alcohol in a toner which makes
your skin feel tight after use.
Anything using AHA's
(alpha hydroxy acid) must have a warning on it as it makes your skin
more sensitive to the sun but actually glycolic is the only one that has
this effect. Of course really you should always use an SPF when going
out in the sun.
Ingredients to look out for:
- Glycolic or alpha hydroxy acids loosen excess accumulation of dead skin and exfoliates.
- Witch-hazel tones and firms.
- Ginseng naturally supplies the skin with oxygen.
- Pineapple is an anti-inflamatory
- Papaya extract hydrates
- Alpine herbs soften and plump the skin
- Salicylic acid causes the skin cells to shed more easily.
- Peony flower extract or royal jelly are good for moisture in toners.
Some
of my favourite toners are the
First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads,
Pixi Glow Tonic and Environ AVST toner for when I need something really
basic.