Acids in Skincare: How to Choose the Right One for Your Skin Type

Acids have become some of the most sought-after ingredients in skincare. They’re known for addressing a variety of skin issues, from fine lines and dullness to acne and uneven texture. But with so many options—glycolic, lactic, hyaluronic, salicylic, and more—it’s not always easy to know which is best suited for your skin type. Here’s a breakdown of the most popular acids, their unique benefits, and how to use them for glowing, healthy skin.

1. Glycolic Acid

Best for: Normal to oily skin, uneven texture, scarring and hyperpigmentation

Glycolic acid is an AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) derived from sugarcane. It has the smallest molecular size of the AHAs, allowing it to penetrate deeply for effective exfoliation. Glycolic acid removes dead skin cells, brightens the complexion, and promotes cell turnover, which helps reduce hyperpigmentation and smooth skin texture. However, due to its potency, those with sensitive skin should start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage as tolerated.

My Favourites: The Ordinary Glycolic Toner, Superdrug Naturally Radiant Glycolic Toner

2. Lactic Acid

Best for: Sensitive and dry skin

Lactic acid is a gentler AHA derived from milk. It’s an excellent choice for sensitive or dry skin types because it provides hydration in addition to exfoliation. It helps improve skin texture and fade mild discoloration without the irritation often associated with stronger AHAs. Lactic acid is a great starting acid for beginners and works well in a nighttime routine to soften and brighten the skin.

My Favourites: Garden of Wisdom Lactic Acid

3. Mandelic Acid

Best for: Sensitive and acne-prone skin

Mandelic acid, another AHA, has a larger molecular size, making it one of the gentlest exfoliating acids. Derived from bitter almonds, it works more slowly than other AHAs, which reduces the risk of irritation while still helping to smooth skin and reduce acne. It’s particularly suitable for sensitive skin types and those who find glycolic or lactic acid too harsh. Mandelic acid is often recommended for acne-prone skin due to its anti-inflammatory properties.

4. Salicylic Acid

Best for: Oily and acne-prone skin

Salicylic acid is a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) that’s oil-soluble, allowing it to penetrate deep into the pores to dissolve excess sebum and clear out dead skin cells. It’s particularly effective for treating blackheads, whiteheads, and acne. By exfoliating inside the pores, it helps to prevent and treat breakouts. Because salicylic acid can be drying, it’s best used on oily or acne-prone skin and should be balanced with hydrating products to prevent over-drying.

My Favourites: DoSe Salicylic Acid, 

5. Azelaic Acid

Best for: Rosacea, acne, and hyperpigmentation

Azelaic acid is naturally occurring in grains and known for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. It’s particularly beneficial for people with rosacea, as it calms redness and reduces inflammation. Azelaic acid is also effective in treating mild acne and reducing hyperpigmentation, making it a good choice for sensitive skin types dealing with multiple skin concerns.

My Favourites: DoSe Azelaic Acid

6. Hyaluronic Acid

Best for: All skin types, especially dry and dehydrated skin

While technically not an exfoliating acid, hyaluronic acid is a powerhouse hydrator. It’s a humectant, meaning it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to plump and smooth fine lines. Suitable for all skin types, it works particularly well when layered under moisturiser to lock in hydration. Using hyaluronic acid can help combat any dryness that may result from using other exfoliating acids.

My Favourites: DoSe Hyaluronic Acid, 

7. Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)

Best for: Extremely sensitive skin and those new to acids

Polyhydroxy acids, including gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, are a newer class of acids that work similarly to AHAs but with a larger molecular size. This makes them less likely to cause irritation, making them ideal for sensitive skin. PHAs provide mild exfoliation and have hydrating properties, making them a gentle alternative for those who can’t tolerate traditional AHAs or BHAs.

My Favourites: DoSe PHA Exfoliating Serum 

8. Ferulic Acid

Best for: Antioxidant protection and sun damage

Ferulic acid is an antioxidant often found in combination with vitamins C and E. Unlike exfoliating acids, ferulic acid helps protect the skin from environmental stressors like pollution and UV damage. It stabilises other antioxidants, enhancing their effects, and helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone over time. Including ferulic acid in a morning routine can boost skin’s resilience against daily stressors, making it an excellent addition to anti-aging routines.

My Favourites: Skinceuticals C E Ferulic, 

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How to Choose the Right Acid for Your Skin

1. Identify Your Skin Type: Understanding whether your skin is oily, dry, sensitive, or combination will help narrow down the acids best suited for your needs.
2. Consider Your Skin Concerns: From hydration and fine lines to acne and pigmentation, each acid has specific benefits that address different concerns.
3. Start Slowly: Introduce one acid at a time to see how your skin responds. Overuse can lead to irritation, so begin with a lower concentration and gradually increase frequency.
4. Don’t Forget SPF: Acids can increase sun sensitivity, so it’s essential to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin from UV damage.

Choosing the right acid can transform your skincare routine and deliver results tailored to your skin’s needs. Whether you’re looking for deeper hydration, gentle exfoliation, or targeted acne treatment, there’s likely an acid that’s a perfect fit. And remember, always patch-test new products and consult a skincare professional if you have any concerns about starting with acids.

Tune in to our latest podcast episode to learn more about each of these acids, including usage tips, layering, and real-life examples of how they can enhance your skincare journey!

UVB

 Everything you need to know on UVB... in 3 minutes 

Rosacea

A common chronic disease of unknown cause, characterised by redness with inflamed spots and pustules. Though it may be under control it is a relapsing condition. The skin appears tense and shiny (though it's not an oily skin condition) and on close inspection often reveals spider or thread veins. Rosacea is usually confined to the face, though it may spread onto bald scalps and, rarely, even onto the upper arms.

It used to be associated with acne but it's actually a very different condition. There is no oil present and the spots don't usually leave any scarring or pits. Symptoms include flushing, heat and stinging, spots, visible blood vessels, skin sensitivity, sometimes skin thickening. It effects about 1 in 10 people and 1 in 600 people are diagnosed with it in the UK every year. It's most common in fair skin (used to be called 'the curse of the Celts'). Occurs in men and women but more common in women between 30 & 50 and though it's three times more common in women it tends to be worse in men.

What happens to the skin when you go through the Menopause?

Our skin can change so much during menopause but it's often overlooked as something that 'happens to all women' and we must just get on with. Going to your GP can help, as soon as you feel an inkling of peri-menopause go and talk to them. The right GP will help you navigate this time as its different for everyone. And here's what you need to know about your skin during the menopause. 

 

Sebaceous Filaments

It's so easy to get these confused with blackheads and they are very similar. A black head is a sort of keratin/sebum/dirt plug that's formed in the pore or hair follicle that has oxidised and turned black. A sebaceous filament are supposed to be there - they help lubricate the skin and are just more prominent in some skins than others. They look like a white, grey or yellow tiny thin hair like strand.

Your face is covered in tiny, fine hairs and there is a sebaceous gland attached to each hair follicle. Sebum helps keep bacteria out of the hair follicle and keeps the skin healthy. Sebaceous filaments are often more visible when there is an overproduction of sebum.

The Lymphatic System and How You Can Help It

Your lymphatic network is basically your cells waste disposal system - it drains and filters fluid which has been discarded from cells and tissue. It also absorbs fats and fat soluble vitamins from the digestive tract and delivers them to the cells.

It is an essential part of the immune system, maintaining fluid levels, fighting infection and producing white blood cells. It's often called the second circulation system but unlike blood it isn't pumped around the body, it relies on the squeezing of muscular contraction to push it through the vessels.

A sluggish lymphatic system can cause all sorts of problems from headaches, brain fog, swollen glands, excessive mucus, sore throats, ear popping, bloating, swelling to pins & needles, acne, dry skin and reduced ability to fight infection. And there are a number of causes, sedentary lifestyle, poor diet and genetics to name but three.

So there are some things that you can do to keep your lymphatic system working well and therefore help keep your immune system tip top.

1. A few minutes deep breathing - which uses muscles and helps the flow.
2. Hydration - drink enough water, it makes up a major part of lymph, blood and interstitial fluid. You don't need to over do it, a few sips of room temperature water every 15 minutes is enough but for those who want to you can calculate how much you need to be drinking a day - I used this one from Good Housekeeping.
3 Dry brushing - these brushes are available from lots of places.
4. Move - any movement is good, remember it's the contraction of muscles that really help keep the lymphatic fluid moving. Yoga is great for this.
5. Go for a walk
6. Massage - body brushing works as a form of massage for the body. I've given some examples of facial massage below.
7. Consider your makeup and skincare - Skin is your largest organ, what goes onto and into your skin adds to the waste load.
8. Eat healthily - whole foods, all the colours, green vegetables and try to resist the processed fast foods.

This is how I incorporate this into my morning cleansing routine so there are some cleansing movements in here but here are the ones that are for lymphatic drainage.
1. Thumbs under jaw bone and ring finger on inside of eyes, slight rocking pressure applied and sweep out to the edge of the face. 2. Thumbs under jaw and ring finger applying slight circular pressure to the outer corner of the eyes and pulled out to the side 3. Up across the nose and forehead and out to the edges of the face. 4. Fingers on the brows and rocking motion with slight pressure. Bring the fingers up to the hair line. 5. Sweeping motion from the inside of the face to the outside edges.